Our Staff Journalist Gemma Weir reflects on her Croatian encounter and tells us why she’ll be back…
Croatia is a country that has definitely made it onto my ‘go again’ list. There’s not a lot on that list, I like to stick a pin in the map and move on, trying to cover as much of this wonderful big globe as I can before my insurance goes up.
I had stopped off at Split as part of a cruise itinerary, and I’m embarrassed to say, that I was a little bit huffed that Split was the destination of choice and not Dubrovnik. I had heard so much about Dubrovnik, it was rising in popularity and anywhere else in Croatia seemed to be a secondary option.
I found myself whispering a huge, humble apology to Split under my breath as I stopped to take it all in.
Split is the second largest city in Croatia with a vast and ancient history. Time was limited and I wanted to see as much of this interestingly beautiful city as I could before I had to set sail again.
The obvious thing to do, was to find a suitable tour that would whizz me around the best bits and safely deliver me to the port before I got stranded. The more I saw of Split, the less I think I would have minded being left behind.
The terracotta roofs and the deep blueness of the Adriatic Sea make this destination a living Instagram moment. (I was about to make mention of ‘picture postcard’ but the world seems to have moved on from the like). The glorious sunshine set the whole scene of perfectly. I arrived in July when the sun was high, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the sea looked like an Aladdins cave.
The tour began with a bit of a walk around the narrow, shady streets and cobbled alleyways of the Old Town, as we made our way to Narodni Trg (Peoples Square), the life vein of the Old Town. The square is a hub of cafes and restaurants where you could sit for hours under the wonderful old clock, sipping on a glass of chilled Chardonay. Everything is old, it looks old, well worn, and very charming… Old as in ‘vintage wine’ old, not ‘old sock’. It’s beautiful.
Our tour continued through little streets and nooks and crannies until we reached Diocletian’s Palace. I would like to take to opportunity to thank the Roman Emperor Diocletian for having the foresight in 305 AD to erect such an impressive piece of architecture, because it is a treat to explore, if not a wonder how it has survived and can be enjoyed by us all today. Diocletian’s Palace is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is also where Daenerys kept her dragons in Meereen (Game of Thrones has literally taken over the world!)
Within the walls of Diocletian’s Palace, you can find St. Domnius Cathedral. The oldest Catholic cathedral in the world! I wish I could tell you that I took to my flip flops and climbed the famous bell tower, but I didn’t. Sadly, I genuinely had no idea what I was missing, the views from the top across the city are remarkable; but I was very warm and hungry, a combination that I have learned need urgent attention. Looking back, I might have forgone the expensive pizza for the memories of the views. It was a great pizza though!
Our tour group was ushered the main traffic area, where all jumped aboard a little white bus for a continuation of the tour along the coast line – I think I stopped breathing for a little while. I can’t ever recall, up until that point anyway, seeing water quite so blue or quite so sparkling.
I was delighted to get a stop off at a little secluded beach with reclining chairs and umbrellas (for a fee I gladly paid), and a little beach butler who brought me iced peach tea as I sat and looked out onto the sea, trying to tally up how long I could afford stay in this wonderful little chunk of paradise, writing my memoirs, poetically looking out across the bejewelled waters before my funds dried up and I became destitute and my Dad would have to Paypal me the fare home… About three days… I was financially forced to get back onto the little white bus and leave. I could complain ordinarily, but our next stop was Italy, so I had a bit of a cheek.
One thing I am sure of, I will be back in Croatia… I loved the beauty and rugged charm, the history and the escape to the shore line. You can immerse yourself in the hubbub and hustle and bustle if you feel so inclined, or take your leave for a little bit of scenic isolation when the world seems to be a little too ‘peopley’… I find Split suits me very well indeed!
