On Monday 2nd October, Glenn took off on his Japanese adventure, where he will be immersed in the culture and everyday life of Japan for the month of October.
Monday started with a trip to the main Tokyo station, where Glenn picked up his JR Rail Pass. This pass will give him access to JR train routes throughout Japan and includes the Shinkansen (Japan’s famous bullet train).
On this trip he will be visiting Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Hiroshima & Nagasaki- all by bullet train mainly (there is a short connection between Fukuoksa & Nagasaki which is just a fast train.). He will then be flying up to Hokkaido (The north Island) and exploring around Sapporo before returning home.
Day 1 – Monday 2nd October
Exploring Tokyo
“ticket in pocket, I got back to exploring Tokyo. I headed straight for the Tsukiji Outer market. The show auction of the big money tuna has moved recently to Toyosu along with a few of the restaurants, but I was advised that the real soul of the market still exists in the old outer market. If your definition of ‘soul’ is hundreds of stalls selling every conceivable things related to fish and vendors / restaurants selling every preparation possible of fish and meats, surrounded by throngs of people packing the alleyways, then they were correct.
It was fascinating in every regard. There were small restaurants partly open air in alleys with queues which must have taken hours to get to the front – clearly, they were worth it! There were knife shops with knives in the 100’s of pounds with queues of people each buying multiple knives. Street sellers had every conceivable offering but the biggest prawn cracker I have ever seen in my life was very popular – you could actually see the prawn in the middle of it – see if you can spot it in the picture?”
Day 2 – Tuesday 3rd October
Mount Fuji Tour
“What a beautiful morning it was with not a cloud in the sky and as I looked upwards, I saw a shining moon still visible between two high rise office blocks. Anyhow I thought it boded well for seeing Mount Fuji!
“It took about 1.5 hours to get to the area and as we approached in our coach, our guide told us to look up as we gained our first sight of Mount Fuji – a towering expanse of physical presence with the top clearly visible and the clouds hanging around the middle almost like a skirt.
“Our guide warned us that this could change by the minute, something I am familiar with having seen the ‘tablecloth’ role over Table Mountain in Cape Town in literally seconds.
“Unfortunately Mount Fuji and the clouds wouldn’t play ball. There were times when we thought clearings would develop only to be dashed by yet more clouds. There were two more stops along the lakeside but unfortunately no improvement! But we had seen her and whether partly cloud covered or not she was still magnificent!
“We headed back to Shinjuku bus station, and I thought being in the vicinity, I would drop into the Golden Gai district, an institution for over 50 years, where a multitude of small bars (some which only holding a handful of people) sit side by side. It is renowned as being a gathering spot for artists, writers and musicians and is bohemian / eclectic in nature. Word has it that some bars will refuse entry, waiting for their regulars. As I arrived there was unfortunately a potential fire emergency unfolding in one building and the area was swarming with fire engines – just my luck but I am determined to visit tomorrow before I leave Tokyo on Thursday for Nagoya.”
Day 3- Wednesday 4th October
Last day in Tokyo
“Today I started by visiting Electric Town in the Akihabara district.
“This is area of Tokyo where all the electronics retailers and resellers are focused. It is also an area where ‘Anime’ (Japanese Animation) lives loud and proud.
“The electronic stores are slightly overwhelming – floors upon floors of goods but mainly phones, cameras, laptops and tablets. All the latest models are there often being released first in Japan. There is great value to be had compared to the prices we would be used to in the UK/Ireland, but you would have to keep your whits about you to ensure that you get the right model and conformity.
“On the anime side of things there were stores focused on costumes, stores focused on anime figures and anime toys, and anime art exhibitions. The biggest surprise of all was the stores seemingly packed with ‘pick and grab machines’ filled with anime soft toys. Endless machines and some stores on multiple floors all with the same thing – pick and grab/try your luck machines. These places weren’t empty – filled with locals and tourists alike – like Blackpool on steroids.
“Onwards to Golden Gai and it’s 300 bars. Nothing could have prepared me for I experienced. I loved very minute of it. Imagine installing bar in your front room and putting several bar stools along it and a tiny toilet in the corner. Often you to have to move down up to ensure that your host maximises capacity and when anyone wants to use the facilities you may have to get up again. My first host was very welcoming. She gave me a warm towel, served a small dish of homemade chicken and pickles and encouraged conversation with the other guests as best we could.
“I called it a night after 3 bars (and I won’t say how many drinks) as I was moving onto Nayoga the next morning. I literally could have been sucked into that place and it’s 300 bars every easily indeed. In summary don’t miss it – so unique!”
Day 4- Thursday 5th October
The trip to Nayoga
“Four Stops on the JR Line got me to the enormous Tokyo station within 10/15minutes. Tokyo station turned out to be easy to negotiate before I knew it, I was at the Shinkansen gates. In fact, I was there far too early, having watched a video which said arrive an hour before. Honestly, I would say be through the gate and at your platform 30 minutes before departure.
“When your train arrives at the platform a cleaning crew go onto every carriage and turn it around spic and span for the next journey. They also did something I had never seen in the world before – because the shinkansen trains run station to end station and back, they come into the end station pointing towards the buffers … The cleaning crew then swivel the seats to face forward so every trip is always facing forward – brilliant!
“The journey literally flew by, and we managed to get a great view of Mount Fuji on the way past (book the right-hand window seats travelling from Tokyo). I was getting off at Nagoya and as the stops are short, I had to be ready to disembark as soon as the train stopped.
All in all, a great experience! These trains are smooth to ride on despite their speeds of over 170mph. I think it’s interesting that these trains run the length of Japan at frequencies for every 30 mins, whereas in the UK we can’t even get one HS2 line beyond the Midlands?
I am staying 2 nights in Nayoga at a very new & modern hotel called the Nishitetsu Hotel Croom. I paid approx. £50 a night having booked a few months out. The hotel is lovely and again has everything you could want including Japanese Onsen style bathing on the top floor.”
Day 5 – Friday 6th October
Exploring Nagoya
“One of my reasons for coming to Nagoya was that this area and in particular the Gifu & Seki prefectures are famous for their blade and knife production, dating back to the early sword manufacture. I wanted to visit one specialist knife shop with a huge selection of knives and this morning I made that visit.
I must have spent 90 minutes in the shop looking at the various knifes types and taking advice from the proprietor. Eventually I decided between either a Bunka or Santoku (both varieties) of general- purpose knives. Then I had to choose from the vast collection, trying out how they felt and how their sharpness cut through paper etc. Anyhow long story short, I am a happy boy. I have my knife –completely handmade from carbon steel meaning it will have to be kept very dry as whilst sharper they have a tendency to rust easily. Not cheap but hopefully a life-long investment.
I then headed off to visit Nagoya Castle which I could just about catch a glimpse of from the hotel. When I arrived and paid my entry, I was approached by an older gentleman telling me that he was a volunteer guide and would I like him to take me round to give me a one-on-one tour. He told me that he volunteers to help promote Nagoya tourism and help those who visit understand more about the city he loves. He was not alone – there was perhaps 6 to 8 others waiting to offer tours also. I was blown away by this gesture of kindness & goodwill.”
“Nagoya is a beautiful city, much smaller and less frantic than Tokyo. The streets and shopping areas are lovely to walk through – tree-lined and public music being played in some areas. There are many wonderful visitor attractions so maybe it should get a bigger footfall from those racing from Tokyo to Kyoto. I am glad that at least I got a day here.
