Staff Journalist Gemma Weir was invited along to Lough Neagh Fisheries for a ‘Taste the Island’ experience
I was delighted to be invited along to ‘Taste the Island with Lough Neagh Tours’, to experience the Lough in all its glory. Lough Neagh is not only beautiful, but a crucial cog in the lives of local fishermen, residents and even to our whole eco structure. The historical significance of the Lough is remarkable.
The day began with a coach pick up in Belfast that comfortably escorted myself and the tour group to Lough Neagh. We were greeted at the Lough Neagh Visitor centre and given a wonderful tour which gave so much insight into the rich fishing history and current situation, of the Lough.
This is a tour that you really must do for yourself. I tried to have excitable conversations with quite a few people to share my new found knowledge of eels and the Lough, but they didn’t seem to catch my enthusiasm. I can guarantee, if they had of been of that tour, they would have ‘got it’… I was on the brink of signing up for a Marine Biology degree by the time they had finished with us. Do you know that eels are gender-fluid? How very modern!
We were taken down onto the factory floor where we had the opportunity to see the process that takes place when the fishermen bring back their catch; the sorting and packaging of the eels for transport. I did not feel the temptation to consume one of these large, water-snakey-not-quite-fishy-creatures at that point in time, but temped or not, that was next on the agenda.
Well, this was far beyond my expectations. I had expected quite a Victorian array of Dickensian jellied eels in a jar and a big glass of water to wash away the after taste. What I actually got, was the most beautiful display of freshly baked oat breads from Bakehouse, and crackers adorned with what I can only describe as ‘posh smoked eel’, served with delicious locally made chutneys from Brambleberry Jams; all displayed proudly on a three tier wooden display stand. From the first time I heard the words “eel tasting”, I was excited.
Who would have thought that those wriggling water worms would taste so absolutely amazing? (No one has made me say that!) Our wonderful Lough Neagh smoked eels tasted a bit like mackerel, but softer and more delicate. The eel was paired immaculately with the chutney and breads and I had my hot cup of tea on the side. I really wanted to clear what was left on the tiers, but I was with a group of strangers and I am socially awkward so I just looked at them longingly from across the table.
We took our leave of the visitor centre and made our way to the Lock Keepers Cottage; a wonderfully, homely, quirky little spot that sits perfectly on the bank of the River Bann. Stepping inside made me feel like going to visit a good friend. It’s comfortable, lovely and relaxed… and of course, there’s food! Don’t forget the food!
My visit had coincided with the River to Lough Festival, a food festival in celebration of Lough Neagh Pollan after it being awarded special status as “Protected Designation of Origin (PDO)” by the European Commission in 2018. So naturally, I was delighted to discover that lunch was quite the treat of fish, chips and home made bread by the Fishermans wife. Pollen was the catch of the day, of course!
There was something about sitting overlooking the lough and eating its produce that made me very proud. Our Island has it all! The delight wore off ever so slightly when lunch continued with some more eel, but of the fried variety this time. Being the newbie to the eel antics, I was unaware that the little chopped-up rolls in front of me still had the bones in as I stuck the heap in my mouth and felt the crunch. One subtle handkerchief evacuation later, I went back for more Pollan!
We were whipped off after lunch to the Crosskeys Inn, Ireland’s oldest thatched pub, for some whiskey and truffle tasting. As I entered the Crosskeys Inn, I felt like I had just passed through a time warp. The live traditional music was in full swing, guitars, harps, penny whistles and other blowy sorts of instruments of which I won’t even hazard a guess. Fires lit, peat in the air and whiskey and chocolate truffles on the old wooden tables. This is exactly the kind of establishment where you could go in one fine afternoon and not emerge again for weeks. I’ll definitely come back here and when I do, I’ll wear an Aran jumper and bring some good company and my recorder! I felt all fiddle-de-dee (probably owning to the spirits), but it was time to move on. Only for the enticement of a boat tour with a real fisherman on the lough on a beautiful afternoon, I would have begged my pardon and stayed where I was. I would perhaps still be there. (That whiskey would put a few hairs on your chest… or burn a few out of your nostrils!)
I think my excitement over eels was heightened by the boat trip. We climbed on board a little fishing boat as we watched the glorious waters glistening behind us and made our way to the middle of the Lough. I was even excited to see a real live fisherman standing in those welly boots that don’t stop, but merge into trousers and then a dungarees at the top? (Something’s telling me they’re called ‘waddlers’ or ‘wallers’ or something like that?… Answers on a postcard to Gemma @ NI Travel News!)
This boat tour was a glimpse of the Lough’s dream team. Husband and wife, Anne Marie McStocker and Gary McErlain are passionate about what they do and work literally day and night during season to keep this dying fishing tradition alive. We learned more about this ancient tradition and about the mysterious life of eels (and it is mysterious, if you don’t believe me, go and see for yourself! They’re very secretive, especially when it come to their reproductive habits… Quite refreshing in 2019!) Look out for Gary and Anne Marie in the near future as they begin their new boat tour venture – they give an insight on the hard reality of working the lough, their love of what they do and give a real education that make you wonder why you didn’t know all this stuff before, and its great fun in the most wonderful location.
It was time to get back to reality with a full tummy, a lovely glow in my cheeks that lingered on from the Crosskeys Inn and a lot of information about eels. Highly recommend trip! It’s great craic, educational, different and a great quirky way to spend the day! I stood at the end of the day and looked out onto the Lough as I took my glorious panoramic photograph of the shimmering waters, I did so with a little more gratitude than when I first arrived. Lough Neagh is more than just a pretty face!
For more information or to book: visit loughneaghtours.com or call Lough Neagh Tours on tel 028 7941 7941 and email info@loughneaghtours.com
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