In this two-part adventure, contributor HEIDI McALPIN recalls her summer 2019 family trip to Eastern Canada…
Beavers tails, cheese curd-slathered chips and enough maple syrup to fill a Great Lake. Getting stuck into a new destination is as much about eating as it is sightseeing, and a quirky mix of epicurean treats await ravenous visitors to Canada. Which is where our family headed for our 2019 summer holiday.
Canada is a big country, the world’s second biggest in fact, and our planned 16 day excursion needed careful planning. Being a big fan of railway travel, which is experiencing something of a revival in these environmentally aware times, I put together a metropolitan adventure taking in several Eastern Canada stops; Toronto, Niagara Falls, Ottawa, Quebec and Montreal. A swift scoot around Canada’s user friendly Via Rail website, and our tickets were booked.
With two children aged 12 and 9 to consider, cities provide that happy balance of excitement, entertainment and blissful exhaustion. And after a busy day on the hoof, nothing beats a classy boudoir in which to collapse. Our first hotel certainly delivered that, well, ‘X’ factor. Hotel X Toronto, for that is she, overlooks Lake Ontario and is within a picturesque lakeside stroll of the downtown area’s iconic sights.
From the airy atrium bedecked in stunning contemporary décor to our huge corner suite with jaw dropping views of the CN Tower, this newly opened hotel is a stunner. Its rooftop pool provides yet more Insta-worthy views, while the spa, gym and sports courts keep the body stretched and soothed in equal tones. Add to that the Kids Play Centre, and – get this – its very own cinema, and it’s all you can do to prise yourself away for a city sojourn.
But prise you must… for Toronto awaits with its 553 metre-high CN Tower, the tallest free standing structure in the Western hemisphere, taking centre stage. A trip to the top is de rigeur but to really hit the heights, treat yourself to a meal in its revolving 360 Restaurant.
The seafood platter is simply divine, with Blueberry Cured Smoked Atlantic Salmon, Prince Edward Island mussels and Fogo Island snow crab legs among the maritime delights. It’s not cheap, but the price does include access to the Observation Deck and knee-trembling Glass Floor. If you’re feeling really daring, you can also endure, I mean enjoy, the Edge Walk, a hands-free saunter around the Tower’s dizzyingly high exterior.
We duly declined and descended back to base to encounter another aquatic feast, this time for the eyes not the mouth. Ripley’s Aquarium of Canada is situated right at the foot of the CN Tower, making both attractions a seamless few hours of family fun. Ray Bay, Canadian Waters and Rainbow Reef exhibits lead you to the aquarium’s highlight; the Dangerous Lagoon, a see-through tunnel filled with sharks so close you can count those pearly whites. The kids loved it, and we were surprisingly impressed, too. Though we could have done without the insufferable ‘Baby Shark (do do do-do do-do)’ earworm.
As Canada’s biggest city, getting around Toronto is a doddle with its expansive public transit network of trams, buses and underground. Purchase passes or, alternatively, take the City Sightseeing Hop On Hop Off bus around the main sights. Casa Loma, Fort York, St. Lawrence Market and the neighbouring Distillery District are all worth a stop. Toronto’s diverse range of art galleries and museums await the culturally curious, and there’s even a nod to a certain Ms Markle’s Yorkville haunts.
Exhilarated and exhausted, each day exploring Toronto’s sights ended with us back at the hotel for eats and an evening swim. Upscale Pétros82 Mediterranean restaurant, laid-back Maxx’s Kitchen and the sophisticated Falcon Sky Bar have all tastes covered. But we had booked the Library Club Lounge Access which included an evening wine and cheese reception. This, I have to tell you, was the highlight of our stay; the children playing with newfound friends while we gazed across the lake, nibbling a buttery Manchego and quaffing a chilled Chablis. Bliss.
Topping and tailing our trip in Toronto, we departed this bustling city knowing yet more time lay ahead down the line. Now, though, it was off to the cathedral-like Union Station and a train ride to another waterworld of truly epic proportions.
Many visitors to Toronto include a daytrip to Niagara Falls. It’s just 80 miles away, but we decided to spend a couple of days to really dive into this mad meld of natural wonder and tacky resort. Verging on the surreal, prepare yourself for a riot of neon, nightlife and white knuckle rides. Aside from the big name hotels overlooking the falls, accommodation is a mix of hotels, motels and B&Bs aimed at the stag, hen, honeymooner and family market – we opted for the basic but convenient Rodeway Inn Fallsview (albeit with no falls view).
Bags dumped and curiosity peaked, we purchased a Niagara Parks Wonder Pass to immerse ourselves in the main sights and attractions celebrating this amazing spectacle. Journey Behind the Falls is a series of rock-hewn tunnels that take you within touching distance of the ferocious Horseshoe Falls, where one-fifth of the world’s freshwater thunders over its edge. Niagara’s Fury, a virtual wet and wild ride, and the delightful distraction of the Butterfly Conservatory are also included in the Pass which covers local transport to and from these attractions, and more.
The Hornblower Cruise (not included in the Pass) sails into the cloudy mists of the Canadian Horseshoe Falls and alongside the bubbling base of its American Falls cousin. Canada truly is the best side to view and experience both majestic drops and nightly fireworks and illuminations that transform them into a multi-hued marvel.
Away from the water, the flashing lights of Clifton Hill and surrounding streets lure tourists with a cavalcade of fabulously tacky attractions. Ripley’s Believe It Or Not, Guinness World Records, waxworks, haunted houses and chocolate emporiums vie for your eye and dollars. Go for broke and leave no aspect of your Niagara Falls visit uncharted. Sophisticated it ain’t, but you’re only here once.
One week and two destinations down, the children have become maple syrup converts and we’re all ready for a new view. Plus, those culinary Canadian classics of beaver tails (of the non-furry variety) and cheese curd with chips are a mere train ride away. All aboard!
Next time Heidi and her family continue their Canadian adventure in Ottawa, Montreal and Quebec.
