Heidi McAlpin and family enjoy a mini break in Wales’ vibrant capital city…
Long before Game of Thrones entered our collective conscience, Wales has long claimed the mighty dragon as its own. And in its capital city of Cardiff, this fiery red symbol dominates; on flags, as sculptures and populating a plethora of gifts and souvenirs. The Welsh are undoubtedly proud of their winged mythical beast.
And there’s nowhere better to get up close and personal to this legendary creature than the jewel in Cardiff’s crown, the majestic Cardiff Castle. From the Romans to the Normans, and right up to the city’s hugely influential Bute family, 2000 years of history is embedded within its mighty walls.
Which made this medieval masterpiece first stop on our family trip to a city whose direct flights from Belfast had long put it on our ‘must-see’ list. That plus the fact that my daughter collects commemorative coins and it turns out The Royal Mint is a mere 20mins from the city. But first, to the castle…
Perched on top of a grassy mound and surrounded by a moat is its perfectly proportioned Norman Keep. In fact, if you asked a child to draw a castle, it would most likely look like Cardiff’s medieval fortress including, of course, that fantastical dragon guarding its gardens.
Galvanise yourself for the steep, stone-stepped incline and you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views across the city and beyond. And back at base, the magnificence continues as you time travel several centuries to the Victorian Gothic Castle Apartments. This later neighbouring construction was commissioned by the 3rd Marquess of Bute and is the fanciful creation of renowned architect William Burgess.
Something of the Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen of his day, understatement was certainly not Burgess’ style. Which makes this kaleidoscopic grand design a true feast for the eyes. Arabic mosaics, a menagerie of carved creatures, ornate marble fireplaces and richly-hued stained glass jostle for attention as you wend your way through its magnificent rooms. A bride and groom were having their photos taken when we were there, only adding to the romanticism of the moment.
Alongside its Castle, Cardiff’s other iconic structure attracting pilgrims in their legion is the Principality Stadium. Home to the Welsh Rugby Team, as well as big ticket concerts and events, this megastructure dominates the city centre and is a constant reminder of the sport’s place in every Welsh person’s heart. Stadium Tours provide access to pitch side, press room and the Dragon’s Lair – the appropriately-dubbed home dressing room. No rugby fan should miss a visit to this sporting mecca.
Much like Belfast, Cardiff is small enough to explore on a city break, yet replete with history and exuding an easy-going metropolitan vibe. For our three day trip, we stayed at the three bedroom, two bathroom Hafan y Ddinas Apartment overlooking the River Taff and Principality Stadium. Its contemporary living/kitchen/dining area provided the perfect spot to chill out after our sightseeing adventures, and its location was a handy five minute stroll into town.
And stroll we did, as Cardiff city is a pedestrianised labyrinth of streets and arcades serenely sandwiched between the Castle and Stadium. Bustling with bars, restaurants, shops and a lovely old market, walking around made me think how fabulous it would be if Belfast adopted the same traffic-free streetscape. One can but dream…
Food choices are plentiful, and we dined at three very different yet equally moreish restaurants. The Botanist is a newly opened restaurant festooned with ferny blooms and serving upmarket pub grub on wooden platters and cocktails in plant pots, honouring its outdoor vibe.
Pieminister was a laid-back love letter to the humble filled crust. I was tempted by the veggie Heidi Pie but set my ego aside and plumped for the creamy Chicken of Aragon savoury delight. Our final meal at The Coconut Tree was a spicy Sri Lankan street food affair with wooden benches and boho décor providing the perfect shabby chic backdrop for devilled prawns, pineapple curry and a firecracker of a Sriki-Tiki Cocktail.
Our tourist trail continued south of the city at Cardiff Bay. Once the city’s industrial heartbeat, much like Belfast’s Titanic Quarter, it has been reimagined with trendy apartments, tourist attractions and the top class St. David’s Hotel and Spa. A busy morning was spent at Techniquest, Cardiff’s very own version of our W5. This family-friendly science centre and planetarium is undergoing a major revamp which will be revealed from May this year. New visitors can experience many new hi tech exhibits including an Earthquake Simulator and Virtual Operating Table.
Cardiff Bay is around 2.5 miles from the centre, so a City Sightseeing Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour is the perfect way to explore its history and highlights. We disembarked the tour having learned that composer Ivor Novello and author Roald Dahl were born here. A Novello statue and cute wooden Norwegian Church-turned-arts hub pay homage to the city’s two famous sons. And beside the church a sculpture commemorates Scott of the Antarctic’s voyage from Cardiff Bay. The city’s wealthy coal merchants bankrolled Scott’s fateful trip, and The Scott Antarctic Memorial depicts Scott and his team struggling in an icy embrace. A chilling reminder of his final footsteps.
All the main sights completed, one final destination remained on our Cardiff wish list. Many people are surprised to learn The Royal Mint is just outside Cardiff, but it was PM James Callaghan who moved it from London to within reach of his Welsh constituency. The resulting purpose-built factory was officially opened in 1968 when HM The Queen struck a commemorative 1p coin. This, alongside many more coins and curios can be seen in its excellent museum. A tour takes you behind the scenes to watch coins being struck for use in the UK and over 60 countries worldwide. And you can strike your own coin as a unique souvenir, a dream fulfilled for my starry-eyed daughter.
Mythical beasts, legendary tales, living history and sporting and scientific excellence collectively crown this Principality capital city as a fantastic family destination. And I haven’t even mentioned Gavin and Stacey whose Barry home, nestled between Cardiff city and airport, is fast becoming the area’s latest tourist magnet. Definitely worth another trip to the dragon’s den. Now that’s well lush!
